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Tierra del Fuego - The Land of Fire. The fires were the camp fires of the Fuegian Indians. In one version, Magellan saw smoke only and called it Tierra del Humo, the Land of Smoke, but Charles V said there was no smoke without fire and changed the name... The Fuegians are dead and all the fires snuffed out. Only the flares of oil rigs cast a pall over the night sky.
Bruce Chatwin, In Patagonia
From: Tan Wee Cheng <weecheng@postone.com>
Wed 24-Feb-2000
Looking for Ushuaia at the Edge of the World
Ushuaia. Beautiful name, isn't it ? For a long time, I have craved for her. Pure lust. I have come to the end of the world for her. Yes, edge of the world.
Look at the southern tip of South America and you will see a large island
called Tierra del Fuego, or Land of Fire. Ushuaia, capital of the
Argentine Province of Tierra del Fuego, Antarctica and the South Atlantic
Islands (which theoretically includes Islas Malvinas/Falkland Islands),
is located more than 3,000 km from Buenos Aires, 13,000km from London,
and 14,000km
from Singapore. It takes 2.5 to 3 hours for me to fly here on
a Boeing 737 from Trelew/Valdes which is located mid-Argentina. From
the above 30'C temperature in Puerto Valdes where I had a sunburnt, I have
arrived in damp, wet, cloudy Ushuaia, where I have to put on sweaters to
survive the 5'C English-like winter. This is the world's southernmost city,
where expeditions and cruise-ships (pray for my lottery, and any extraordinary
windfall bonus) set off for Antarctica.
Upon arrival yesterday, I dumped my things at the Kaisken Hostel, which
I have booked in advance via the internet (what can you not booked through
the internet ?), and hopped onto a 6 hour cruise along the Beagle Channel,
the body of water between Argentine Tierra del Fuego and the Chilean island
of Isla Navarino, where a dispute over 3 miserable islands almost led to
full
fledge war in 1978. At a fantastic seafood restaurant, I had
a fabulous meal of the local giant crab and deep fried fish.
In Love With Ushuaia ?
I woke up this morning to a bright, warm Tierra del Fuego c. 25'C, in
contrast to the previous day's 5'C wetness a la England. The snowcapped
mountains surrounding Ushuaia was clearly visible and seagulls greeted
the visitor with loud cries. I visited the Edge of the World Museum
where I did the usual tacky tourist thing - getting an "Edge of the World"
stamping onto
my passport. After another visit to the prison museum, I proceeded
to Martial Glacier, located in a mountain overlooking the city. I
met two elderly Argentine ladies at the cable car. One of them, B.,
from BA, spoke halting but impeccable English of the Home Counties - probably
learnt ages ago from an English gentleman, with polite, serious (and old
fashioned)
terminology, certainly none of the sort associated with Southpark.
The other, L., non-English speaker from Esquel (of the Old Patagonian Express
fame), but with a kind heart all the same. Together we attempted
a slow hike up the mountain. The cheerful old grannies, though looking
weird with their suitcase (!) full of warm clothing and sweet goodies and
cookies, were
most contagious with their jokes and laughter, and made the walk an
unexpectedly enjoyable one. Don't underestimate them - for they were
armed with rather sophisticated set of cameras and great capacity of walking
stamina. It was a great day, and we parted with open invitations
to Bs As and Esquel.
Tomorrow I will fly north again, to Rio Gallegoes where I will get to El Calafate area with more glaciers and mountains.
OK, the sun's out now and it's time to explore Ushuaia. Pray for
my lottery, please.
Bye for now.
Wee Cheng
In the 1890s a crude form of Darwin's theory, which had once germinated in Patagonia, returned to Patagonia and appeared to encourage the hunting of Indians. A slogan: 'The Survival of the Fittest', a Winchester abd a cartridge belt gave some European bodies the illusion of superiority over the far fitter bodies of the natives.
Ships set sail for Antarctica from here.
The Onas of Tierra del Fuego had hunted guanaco since Kaux, their ancestro, split the island into thirty-nine territories, one for each family...they did not think of extending their boundaries... Then the Whites came with a new guanaco, the sheep, and a new frontier, barbed wire. At first the Indians enjoyed the taste of roast lamb, but soon learned to fear the bigger, brown guanaco and its rider that spat invisible death.
The Patagonia Mainland and Perito Moreno Glacier
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