Click map to see detailed route

Map of My Route  ;  Map Showing Where Exactly is the Caucasus

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Caveats:
1.  The display of flags of disputed territories and separatist states in no way imply that the author is sympathetic to their causes.  The flags merely point to the reality that separate administrations do exist whether or not they are internationally recognised.
2.   The countries covered here are all very fascinating and one should resist covering them in the short time I did
(which I did so due to my peculiar citcumstances).
3.    The occurrence of a few negative events may unfairly affect my opinion of certain places, and consequently the tone or language used in my travelogue.  However, these do not consitute any intention to insult the people and culture of any country.
4.    Some names and personal details have been modified to protect the privacy of individuals.
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CONTENTS

TWC's Travelogue & Photo Journal

26 August Yerevan
Gaumarjos began from the air ;

27  August  Stepanakert (Nagorno Karabakh)
Journey to a Rebel Republic
Nagorno-Karabakh: Promised Land for Some, Destroyed Dreams for Others

28 August 2000 Stepanakert - Yerevan
Limping from Karabakh to Yerevan on a Flat Engine

29 August Yerevan / Lake Sevan / Dilijian
Want to Bring An Armenian Cross Home ?

30 August Garni, Geghard & Khor Virab
In A Deep Hole
Respect the Power of the Armenian Brandy !

31 August Yerevan, Mt Aragats & Etchmiadzin
Having Tea with Hospitable Yezidis

1 September  Yerevan - Tbilisi
Journey to Georgia: Land of the Golden Fleece
Tbilisi: Hospitality fatigue, refugees and a high cholesterol meal

2 September Tbilisi
Ever read a “drunk email” ?

3 September Georgian Military Highway
Watch Towers, Robber Barons and Fresh Ram Heads

4 September Georgian Military Highway
To the Russian Border

5 September  David Gareji
One feet in Georgia and one feet in Azerbaijan: Monastery search in the desert

6 September Batumi & Kutaisi
In Mafia Wonderland of Abazhidze
Moving Into an ex-luxury hotel turned refugee camp

7 September  Kutaisi – Tbilisi
More Frescoes

8 September  Gori
Stalin Fever

9 September Tbilisi – London
Homeward

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Links:
I have used services of the following companies and find them helpful in arranging customised transport and tours in the Caucasus:
Parev Yergir in Yerevan: They provide affordable tours everywhere in Armenia and Karabakh.  They have a great website too.
Iveria Travel: Zaza and Dali were great in arranging for my forays to David Gareji and the Georgian Military Highway, as well as providing me with lots of planning information
 

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