Click map to see detailed route

2 September Tbilisi

Ever read a “drunk email” ?

Managed to contact Iveria Travel this morning and went to their office.  Met Zaza and Dali with whom I had discussed via email various out-of-town trips. It's a pity that the earlier agreed trip to the ancient Chechen fortress village of Shatili had to be cancelled due to bad roads and rising border tensions - the village lies on the border with Chechenya and the Russians were accusing the Georgians of aiding Chechen rebels. A few missiles had been shot across the border and the Georgians protested about it, naturally, to no avail.  Anyway, we had awonderful chat while sipping the wonderful coffee made by Dali.  Zaza offerred to bring me around Tbilisi for free, which I agreed.
 

The beautiful National Library	The old seminary where Stalin once studied to be a priest	Mother of Georgia - she welcomes visitors with a bowl of wine and is ready to fight any invader

We spent the next few hours exploring the narrow alleys of old Tbilisi - its numerous churches and mosques, plus a nice synagogue. This is a most beautiful multi-cultural city where many nationalities have lived since time immemorial.  It was a pity that the country has been torn apart since independence and the people have been living in great poverty.  Trashing aside the traditional tolerance of the Georgian nation, Gamsahurdia, the first president of independent Georgia (and ironically member of a regional <though not ethnic> minority himself – he’s a Mingrelian from Sanegrelo), abolished the constitutional autonomy of the Abkhazian Autonomous Republic and the South Ossetian Autonomous Region, provoking the civil wars that later led to the secession of these regions.  Eventually, Gamsahurdia himself was thrown in a civil war that devastated Rustaveli Avenue and totally some of its prominent buildings.  Attempting to regain power from Samegrelo, his forces were beaten off and he died in mysterious circumstances in west Georgia.  Since then, Georgia has been ruled by Eduard Shevardnadze, former Soviet era party chief and later Soviet foreign minister.  Despite the loss of Abkhazia, the increasing corruption in the country, and numerous assassination attempts, Shevardnadze has brought a degree of political stability and some tentative economic growth to the country.

We went to quite a few churches – love them for their brilliant frescoes – I’m tired with the rather bare Armenian churches.  Biblical scenes, Queen Tamara (ruler of the country during the period of the “Georgian Renaissance”), and assorted scenes from Georgian history.  The statue of Mother Georgia with a sword in one arm and a bowl in the other stood over the city.  This captures the spirit of the nation – fight any invader valiantly but welcome friends with great hospitality.  We dropped by Metekhi Church where an equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, founder of Tbilisi, stood.  A number of couples were been wedded there today, and there were many UN cars.  Perhaps some UN guy had fallen for the charm of a local girl.
 

Mtatsminda, The Holy Mountain	Beautiful frescoes in a church	More frescoes
Another view of Mtatsminda	A mosque in this multi-cultural city	One of the old Armenian merchant houses in Old Tbilisi
Synagogue - Tbilisi once had a vibrant Jewish community.	Old Tbilisi - local residence	Old Tbilisi

We (including Dali) ended the day at a cafe, having shasilik and fine Georgian wines. Georgia is the birthplace of wines - archaeologists have found wine presses here dating from 3rd millennium B.C. Integral to Georgian hospitality is the institution of the tamada, or toastmaster. In Georgia, wine must be preceded by a speech or dedication by the tamada, and after the speech, everyone says gaumarjos (victory) and then drain the glass (or horn) in ONE swallow. No wonder Tim Burford (Bradt Guide to Georgia) says he had never drunk so much and yet tasted so little. Needless to say, I was completely drunk at the end of it.  After the session, I sent this email to friends from a cybercafe:
 

	The famous Metekhi Church and statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali ("Wolf Lion"
Icon of St Nino, the Cappadocian nun who brought Christianity to Georgia	The famous icon showing St Nino and the holy column rising to the sky	Icon of Queen Tamara, one of Georgia's greatest monarchs and also saint of the Georgian Orthodox Church

Sent: 02 September 2000 17:25
Subject: [twc-nomad] georgiam hospitality etc

dear all,

i can't qwrite too much for i'm drunk, or semi-drubnk, although i'm proud to say that i can make it to a cyber cafe across the river kura or whatever its new georgian name is.  i have to write this email, for I would disappear to the north, all the way to the russian border, for the next 2 days, and do not want u guys to think that i have disappeared for good... although it's a pity that i wouldn't be able to make it to chechen border village of shatili, for the russian shelling is too serious and the mountain roads are bad- or maybe they are just lying tome.

i arrived in tbilisi, capital of georgia yesterday evening, and let me assure u, if you have heard of that legendary georgian hospitality to strangers, everything u have heard is truue.  i have experienced ythat from the very moment i have arrived, and spent today wondering around tbilisi with my new found georgian friends zaza and dali - correct spelling, I pray.  anyway, it's a fantastic place – unvelievably beautiful and welcoming.  of course we ended the day drinking those fine georgian wines- if u jokers think that france is everything about wines, georgia is the first country in the world to drink - they have archaeological evidence to prove it.  we had a great time.  and so much toasting asw ell.  and i have toasted to so many of you dear friends, and my future niece too.  and to our beloved countries and the world, plus my caucasus discussion list.  i know, i'm able to type this email, but it's not everyday that the proud twc, the sane i-banker, admits that he's even semi-drunk.  cheers to all of u, my dear friends, and for world peace and prosperity.  gaumaujos and whatever.

ps: for those of u waiting for my karabakh report, u woyuld have to wait.

regards,

weecheng
tbilisi
 

Georgian Mountaineers	Supra - a Georgian feast.	Georgian Mountaineers